Somewhere halfway between Iceland and Canada lies the largest island in the world, which is almost entirely covered by a three-kilometre-thick ice sheet. If all the ice melted, the level of the world's seas would rise by seven metres. We visited the far southwestern part, which was blooming in spring colours at the beginning of July. A few Danes had mingled among the Eskimos and, during the two short summer months, they take care of logistics for several hundred tourists; afterwards, the world falls asleep again, encased in ice and darkness, and I simply cannot imagine spending the winter here. Greenland is an independent country with 50000 inhabitants, who have a higher GDP than the Swiss, but nevertheless, at least by our standards, the quality of life is almost at rock bottom. Pleasant temperatures of twenty degrees and twenty-three hours of daylight allow tourists to enjoy some of the most beautiful treks in the world. There is an abundance of the purest water everywhere, while visibility is above average due to the dry air. Greenland is therefore visited by lovers of nature and photography. Prices are outrageously high, while an even greater problem is, of course, access to even the most basic goods, which can only be obtained in small towns, and not everywhere even there. I therefore advise travellers to set out completely self-sufficient and with plenty of good humour, which will slowly melt away at the price of beer, approximately twelve Eur for three decilitres. Solitude takes on new dimensions here, as do notions of villages and small towns, which here resemble forgotten hamlets with a few holiday cottages.